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On a previous visit a couple of years earlier, the landscape here consisted of little more than sky, trees, snow and some evocative detritus from Park City's days as a mining town; now a huge yellowish restaurant had landed, big enough to seat 500 diners inside.Behind the restaurant, called Miners Camp, there was an even greater novelty – a gondola which seemed to be carrying passengers right out of the ski area.With heavy investment and good planning it became bigger than Deer Valley and Park City, and in my opinion better than either of them. Forget the familiar ski-area progression up from nursery slopes to back bowls; here the natural order of things is disrupted by a ridge that runs diagonally across the heart of the skiing.

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There was grumbling on the chairlift: a group of boarders were unhappy about the space invaders.

I gathered that this corner of the ski terrain of Park City in Utah had previously been quiet enough for the boarders to regard it as their own territory. A seismic shift had taken place and these slopes – formerly at the margins of an average-sized resort – were now bang in the middle of the biggest ski area in the United States.

It is a long way from the lift base, therefore never crowded; and miraculously, it allows intermediates to feel like back-country hardnuts thanks to the blue runs inserted into the otherwise black terrain.

Mc Conkey's provides hours of entertainment, and offers a good spot to take a break nearby.

Some of the intermediate pistes follow convoluted routes between the houses, which are shrouded in trees to protect the owners' privacy (or perhaps, to judge from the glimpse of a Norman-style stone chalet with battlements, to protect faint-hearted skiers).

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